Review of the Wages and Working Hours in the Textiles, Clothing, Leather and Footwear Industries from ILO (International Labor Organization) 2014 Report.

After the 1980s clothing lines began increasing new products throughout seasons.  Before, there was the standard seasons of clothing.  But according to this report "Retailers started expanding their product ranges.  The combination of more fashionable designs, the development of distinct brands and the move towards lower production costs overseas proved a profitable formula."  In some cases there can be annually up to 20 collections per brand .  I remember one year while watching the Academy Awards a reporter saying that the dresses the actresses were wearing will be knocked off and in stores within a month.  That's how quickly an item can be made and sent out to stores around the world.  I imagine sweatshop factory head seamstresses watching the Academy Awards in sweaty factories hovering over the television screen with a pen and paper and tracing out the designs. 

The report further discusses that the economic crisis in 2008 "exacerbated some existing industry weakness, such as financial vulnerability of locally-owed small and medium-sized firms that had been the backbone of the TCLF industries."  There were a lot of bankruptcies and workers left without pay.

Overall though this segment of the labor market has allowed for a meteoric increase in jobs especially for women.   In 2010 China the world leader in clothing production employed a total of 11,201,100 people in the textiles and clothing markets.  It's also helped many countries economic growth.  For example, "Many national economies rely on the clothing industry: 88 per cent of total exports from Haiti, 79 per cent from Bangladesh."  So, when I buy that t-shirt from Target I'm also supporting the Haiti export business.

However, the market is "characterized by high volatility, low predictability and generally low profit margins.  Subcontracting is common, intermediaries bring down costs and production lead time plays an increasingly important role."  Obviously this leads to unpredictable and long work hours.

It appears from reading this report that there is what I would call the "food chain" of fashion.  The top tier with higher wages and skilled labor is the textile industry.  Next would be footwear.  At the bottom of the chain, clothing.

The textiles (fabric) top exporter by a huge margin was China at 33.1%. No other single country as of this 2012  came even close.  The next top exporter was Germany at 5.1%.  Next was U.S. at 4.7%.  Textile exports as of 2012 was also China at 38%.  The next two nations were Italy and Bangladesh both at 5%.

"Leather and footwear processing has moved away from Europe and the United States.  In India it grew by over 100 per cent and in the Russian Federation by 45 per cent."

The top purchasers of clothing in the world is Western Europe 27% and between Eastern Europe and Turkey 10%.  North America at 25% and  Japan and Republic of Korea at 13%.  I was a little surprised that North America wasn't the overwhelming purchaser of clothing. 

Anything that expands that quickly is going to have some issues.  I think back to our own Industrial Revolution.  Things weren't so great for us over a hundred years ago.  We even had our own garment factory fire - Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire.  Labor laws were pretty thin to non-existent back then.  Safety measures were not even given a second thought.  It's like that in developing countries now. But, why can't we as a nation who have experienced in these things work to help other countries from repeating history?   After Bangladesh experienced their own versions of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fires and building collapses they have been working, through government regulations, to make the working conditions safer.


Next I'm on to a State of the LA Garment Industry report that at first glance doesn't look so positive. Looks like we just can't get this right...





Wages And Working Hours In The Textiles, Clothing, Leather And Footwear Industries. Geneva: International Labor Organization, 2014. Print. Issues Paper For Discussion At The Global Dialogue Forum On Wages And Working Hours In The Textiles, Clothing, Leather And Footwear Industries.

China

I'm starting my research on China.  When you google China garment worker information you get a large array of websites and articles.  There are quite a few sites talking about the benefits of China's labor force to help with production costs, etc.  Digging around I found a few interesting websites with information that I can't necessarily vouch for accuracy.  There was so much information that it makes me want to abandon this project all together.  I was thinking this would be a pretty easy project but I think it's going to take a lot more of my time and energy. 

According to www.statisa.com in 2014 the average China worker made the equivalent of $8,585 US Dollars.  However, according to a brief unverified posted tweet on www.wsj.com the average China Garment Worker makes anywhere from $165 to $265 US Dollars a month.  So, that's anywhere from $1,980 to $3180 in US Dollars a year.  Now, it does appear the cost of living is lower on most things (although according to this source ironically not clothes and shoes).  I found on www.goatsontheroad.com an itemized list of average costs in China.  The cost of living is so cheap there I'd think of retiring there.  Except when I remember there is the whole lack of freedom and no Facebook...

According to www.ilo.org which is the International Labor Organization (probably a pretty valid source of information) in 2012 38% of all clothing exports came from China. 

Next step - The International Labor Organization has a lengthy document concerning the current status of the garment industry which I will read and report back on it's findings. 

In the meantime I know it's only 17 days in the year but I haven't bought any clothes, shoes or purses not made in the US or at a place I'm assured a fair wage was earned.  This is NOT a statement of made in the USA or not at all.  It's really about making sure that I'm not contributing to the unfair treatment of garment workers wherever they may be.  I realize there are countless other places to protest for example farming.  I'm not entirely sure that if everyone did what I was doing it would be good for these underpaid workers either.  After all maybe some work is better than none.  At the end of this I might come to that conclusion.  With the exception of poor and dangerous working conditions - that is going to far in my opinion. 

Who makes the world's clothes?

I had a thought a couple of days ago.  With the exception of a few labels most of the clothes I owned were made in other countries.  It seemed that most of the countries they were made had a less than stable economic system.  (With the exception of China but I suspect that it might be stable for those in power but not so much for regular citizens.)  Do these countries make the clothes for EVERYONE in world?  Are they clothing USA, Canada, United Kingdom, France, Germany, Russia and Australia?

It appears to be true that if you are making clothes your country is definitely on the lower tier of the world economic situation.  Except for some inspired companies who are fighting the prevalence of fast fashion?

The first step is to take a closer look at these countries starting with China.

Inside my Closet

This was truly an eye-opener.  My closet is a real international affair.  Purses from China, Italy and India.  (Mostly China).  Shoes from Vietnam, China, Indonesia, Brazil (again Mostly China).  Jeans from Bangladesh, China, Mexico and Egypt and one from USA (Not My Daughter's Jeans).  T-Shifts made all the way from Nicaragua, Vietnam, Jordon, Guatemala, Haiti, Philippines, Turkey and Cambodia. Dress Shirts from Indonesia, Thailand, China, India, Mexico and Vietnam.  Sweaters from Thailand, Sri Lanka and Guatemala. 

I did find some garments made in the USA.  I'm not sure if their entire lines are made in USA or if I just happened to purchase one made here.  One of my favorite blouses from Lane Bryant, B.L.E.U Woman & Travel Elements shirts and a Falls Creek shrug. 

Most of these brands are what you would consider American Brands.  Levis, Anne Taylor, Coach, Lee to name a few.  I own quite a few Target brands but I always knew what I was getting into with those. 

What's in your closet?