It took...

9 Months before I cracked!

But, how many of you out there could go nine months buying only Made in USA or Fair Trade products?  There is only a limited world of these items.  Very limited. And expensive!  Moving forward what has to be decided is how to proceed in the future.  What lessons have I learned?  Where is the balance?  Does it really matter?  I've had a hard time weighing the negatives and positives of third world countries making our clothes.  Negatives are poor working conditions, unsafe factories and environmental damage.  But there are positives.  We are contributing to growing economies and people are making money.   Some perspective has to be maintained.  The conditions they are working in are not that different from workers in the USA during the beginning of the industrial revolution.  It was messy, dangerous and unregulated.  There were great muckrakers such as Ida Tarbell and Upton Sinclair who brought attention to what was wrong.  I'm sure that there are modern day muckrakers out there in leading the way to the truth, creating an awareness and demanding changes. 

There really are two sides to every coin. 

Shopping in Louisville, KY

Up to this point I've been purchasing items online.  It's time to reach out to the local business community and see what is out there.  A couple of weeks ago I went into the Willow Tree on Hurstbourne Lane.  Although a little pricy I would say about half of their clothing items are made in the USA, Canada or France.  I would recommend them but use caution as there are quite a few things made in China.  I did speak to the owner, a really nice lady. She said she really does try to buy things made in USA if it's possible.  So, I'm encouraged by this.  However, just like any other made in the USA or any other country that pays their employees a decent wage the prices end up being on the high end.  It's just unavoidable  folks.  Here's their website if you are interested http://willowtreelouisville.com/.

I also visited Just Creations on Frankfort Avenue.  They have a lot of clothing (fair trade).  However, for me I found the clothing a bit odd sized.  The clothing was either way too big or too small.  One bonus though they have Maggie's Organic socks and tank tops.  It was nice to see this brand in a store after having bought things from them in the past online.  I really recommend Maggie's Organics.  So far everything I have purchased from them has been high quality.  The material for one thing is thick.  No thin material on their products.  Even the socks are generous.

After my rant a couple of weeks ago I ended up buying a pair of tennis shoes that were not made in the USA.  I can't justify buying tennis shoes that cost $160.00 just to prove a point.  I also went consignment shopping over the weekend.  Yes, I did buy a couple of things.  No, they weren't made in the USA or Fair Trade.  You could say I'm cheating.  But, if you read the rules in the first post I am allowed if I lost 10% of my body weight.  Which I have.  Even more than 10%.  So, it's not cheating.  I'm getting close to the end of the year.  If I can buy what I need made in USA or Fair Trade I will.  But, I am no longer limiting myself.  However, I will only purchase second hand which isn't quite as bad.  Further, I will stay away from Target clothes. 

Extremely Frustrated....Rant...

When I first started this challenge there was an out.  If I lost more than 10% of my body weight I could abandon this project.  Well at this point I've lost close to 20% so I have every right to go shopping and buy what I want.  But, I haven't yet.  I'm going to try to hold on a little longer.  At this point there are only four more months in the year.  It's possible once I pull out my fall/winter clothes that I might have a change of heart.  I'm allowed. I've earned it.  But, let me share how I'm feeling right now.

EXTREMELY FRUSTRATED!!!  I want to shop at Clothes Mentor so much.  I want to buy piles of clothes and a new designer purse.  I want to run into Target and buy some cheap clothes.  I want to go to Carnival Shoes and buy some new shoes.  My tennis shoes that I bought last December are starting to give.  I can feel it in the heel.  They aren't providing the same support.  Tennis shoes that are made in the USA?  That's IMPOSSIBLE!  New Balance has some pairs that they source as much as possible from the USA and it's made here but the shoes start at $160.00.  I'm not going to spend $160.00 on a pair of shoes.  No matter how good it makes me feel.  For one thing, there is no guarantee the quality is going to be better.  As I have found out this year buying made in the USA or Fair Trade, etc. doesn't guarantee ANYTHING.   I'm not even sure I can truly say I feel better about these purchases anymore.  When I spend so much more money for ill-fitted clothing that look old too soon anyway.  I could at least buy second hand clothes that have been washed several times giving a much fair representation of whether is well made or not. 

This is killing my pocket book!  If I can't buy responsibility when I'm trying how can the rest of the us?  During this election cycle a lot has been said about bringing jobs, such as the garment industry back to the USA.  But, HOW????  Really, HOW????  As I've stated before we aren't going to pay the cost difference.  The genie is out of the bottle.  No one is going back to the way things used to be.  They just aren't.   GIVE ME A BREAK!!!

The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up by Marie Kondo

I read this book in part because I thought maybe I would get some useful tips on how to organize my clothing better.  This book is more about a whole lifestyle approach to tidying up and she really does bring a fresh new approach to organizing our lives.  She talks a lot about how we feel about our things.  Do they spark joy?  If they don't spark joy we should get rid of them.  I'm going to try this out on my clothing and jewelry first.  One of the points she brings up is how to organize your clothes better.  I admit almost everything I own including t-shirts and jeans are hanging in my closet.  Seems I really should be folding these garments.  Her tips on how to fold may help with the longevity of my clothing.  Here are some links.  I would recommend taking a look.  The book is an easy read too and might spark some enthusiasm for getting your home in order!

Marie Kondo: Basic Folding Method

T-Shirts/Camisoles & Socks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lpc5_1896ro

Sweaters and Hoodies

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkGTu-4IPpg

Underwear Drawer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tglp9eWQEhY

Jeans/Pants
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vds4_L7RMUs&list=PLzUTYtj_Dr1Dzn6irxdx0dwi4CodePwHz

Reclaim our lost jobs

One of the themes of our current Presidential debate has been taking our jobs back from foreign countries.  It's been suggested that we have been part of unfair trade deals.  I am not an economist (and certainly don't claim to be!) but I can share my thoughts on what I've learned these past seven months. 

The apparel industry is a mainly manual labor industry.  It's hand created works.  There aren't, with the exception of fabric and pieces of the whole garment, machines working on these products.  Who is going to pay the additional cost of labor thru increased pricing?  If we were going to pay the extra amount wouldn't these jobs stayed here in the first place?  I've been very lucky this year that I can afford to refrain from purchasing fast fashion clothing.  It's costly buying Made in the USA or from Fair Trade apparel companies.  It's also not convenient.  Not only do I have to pay up to 2 or 3 times what the garment would cost me if I ran into a department store here but I have to purchase it online and wait.  And wait.  I really miss running into Target and buying a shirt.  Buying with your conscience is difficult and expensive.  Not everyone could afford to do it.  Also, even some of those who could afford it would balk at the prices. 

When this is over I know that I'll try to be more careful about my purchases.  I still want to keep the amount of clothing in the closet down to a minimum.  I'll slip back into buying second hand clothing.  I'll still avoid the malls and big department stores.  When I have time and the money I'll still invest in pieces that are Made in the USA and Fair Trade.   I still don't know what is the right answer.  When you buy a t-shirt from Target it still gives someone in another country in opportunity to make money.  But, they might be working in an unsafe environment.  I feel like an exploiter.  I'm reminded of the following quote as I ponder these dilemmas:

“The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.”  Albert Einstein

Finding places to shop...

Received an email last week from Wear Pact that they are selling clothes at Target.  Wear Pact is a Fair Trade/Organic cotton company that I have bought t-shirts, hoodies and socks from in the past with varying levels of quality.  This is good news that Target is going to carry some sustainable clothing.  However, right now it appears to be just men's cloths.  So, two steps forward, one step back!

I emailed Texas Jeans to ask them about their factory and workers compensation.  Here is the response I received:

"Thank you for your interest in Texas Jeans USA.  We are still in business for sure!  We have been hard at work to keep up with our wholesale orders and also running our own website out of our factory.  We have currently restocked our website and will be working to maintain a better web presence in the future for our online customers.  

We employ well over 200 workers throughout all of the divisions here at the Texas Jeans factory. We are also a Military contractor that has to adhere to many strict government regulations regarding quality in our work, criminal background checks, and other various rules and regulations to be a contractor.  Our workers are paid very well in order to continue to produce some of the highest quality goods for our military, as well as our denim brand customers.

I hope you will give our Texas Jeans brand a try.  I am sure you will be pleasantly surprised at the quality and craftsmanship at such an affordable price."

So, soon I'll be buying some jeans from Texas Jeans USA. (I'm waiting to loose a little more weight.)  Their jeans are really reasonably priced. 

I kept getting these advertisements on Facebook about a company called ModCloth.  I really liked their designs but didn't know if any of their clothing would be made in the USA.  My sister, who has been interviewed in the previous post, mentioned that some of the clothes she has bought there say Made in USA and that they had a Made in USA section.  I emailed them to find out more and here is the response:

"Thanks for writing to ModCloth! My name is Franny and I'm happy to help you today :) When shopping the site, you may find all pertinent garment information, including country of origin, fabric composition, material content, length or heel measurement, and garment features like pockets, listed under the 'Details & Measurements' tab. Simply click the "+" sign next to 'Details & Measurements' and the tab will open up to provide a description of the item, as well as any pertinent size, fit, and composition details.

When shopping on the ModCloth Mobile app, you will be able to find this information listed under the 'Details & Fit' tab.

I hope this information helps! Please don't hesitate to let me know if you have any other questions or concerns. And as always, if you need immediate assistance please contact us via live chat or phone (888-495-9699)."

Turns out they have a TON of clothes made in the USA.  Although I do have some reservations about even Made in America factory worker's conditions it's still a step in the right direction.  Maybe with more orders, etc. the worker's will have more leverage in the future.  I ordered four shirts Monday.  They should be arriving soon.

I'm feeling quite a bit more hopeful about finishing out the year. Options are definitely opening up.  There are only two items that I simply can't find a satisfactory outlet for - tennis shoes and bras. 

It's funny that even the Presidential election has been highlighted to some small degree the focus of my blog. Although my whole focus isn't on just buying on USA clothing it has been brought up by a candidate who has a past of doing quite the opposite of keeping the jobs here.  (Do as I say not as I do I guess!)  Here is a link to a New York Times article that goes in more depth.

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/01/us/politics/donald-trump-trade.html?hp&action=click&pgtype=Homepage&clickSource=story-heading&module=first-column-region&region=top-news&WT.nav=top-news&_r=0

Quality...an interview with an Expert Seamstress

One of my objectives during my journey was to reduce the amount of clothing I own keeping only high quality items.  However, this goal seems a bit too difficult to reach.  Last week I met with my sister, Barbara Henry for an interview about her experience throughout the years as an expert seamstress.  The interview was conducted at a new restaurant, Finns Southern Country Restaurant. Although it wasn't on purpose it was actually a fitting place (no pun intended, really).  The restaurant's building was the site of offices for the cotton mill that many years ago managed the vast complex that is now the Germantown Mill Lofts. 

Barbara has been sewing since she was ten.  (I'm going to leave out how many years she has been sewing - she might kill me!)  She was self-taught to sew a multitude of things.  She focuses mainly on clothing but does some home decorations.  Barbara is extremely talented at sewing.  I'm not just saying this because she is my sister.  She has been making elaborate wedding dresses, clothing and furniture covers for family and friends for years.  Plus, she has won a LOT of ribbons at the Kentucky State Fair for many different textile crafts including sewing throughout the years. 

I asked her if there have been changes to fabric in the years she has been sewing.  Fabric stores used to organize the selection of fabrics better.  They would have sections of the more classic basic fabrics such as broadcloth, poplin and twill.  Now it seems very much mixed together in fabric stores..  Plus, fabric stores put a lot of emphasis on fleece.  Fleece is much easier for people new to sewing.  Generally, the variety of fabrics is terrible.  This seems to make sense if fast fashion around the word is turning out clothes so fast it's not too much of a leap to think that is happening with fabric as well.   These trends in fabric availability started about 15 years ago.  Again, seems to be influenced on the rapid rise of fast fashion.  Also, if I thought at any point that the solution to counter fast fashion might be to pick up sewing (which really I'm not going to do if I'm honest) these observations about fabric have changed my mind.  Years ago Barbara said it was cheaper to make your own clothes.  But now since clothes are so cheap and the fabrics are pretty lacking, there's really no cost savings to be had here.

In thinking about quality I asked Barbara about which fabrics are more durable, how to identify a fabric's quality and how to keep clothes lasting longer.   Denim and corduroy are two fabrics that are durable.  These are heavy fabrics too.  You don't want a fabric that pills after washing.  (Of course this is hard to really test since you have already bought the item!)  To keep fabric/clothing from lasting longer wash your clothes in cold water and don't put them in the dryer.  The dryer is the #1 reason for damage to fabric.  Which means you'll have to iron.

We took some sample t-shirts to compare.  Two from Target and two from Pact (fair trade-organic cotton).  Comparing the stitching of the first two they were pretty similar.  However, there was more stitching on the Pact t-shirts.  The same Pack t-shirt was also holding up well in the wash (not too pilly).  But, of the other two shirts the Pack one didn't really hold up well against the Target brand.  The Target brand was at least a year old and I've worn it lots of time.  No noticeable pilling.  But the Pack t-Shirt had been washed twice and it was already showing signs of wear. I get the feeling buying Fair Trade makes you feel better about your purchase but doesn't necessarily mean the quality is superior.  One thing Barbara pointed out during the interview was that fabric was getting thinner.  I've noticed that a lot after she pointed that out.  I realized that when I buy t-shirts at Target I normally always have to wear an undershirt (usually a tank under the t-shirt).  The t-shirts are too shear without it.

In buying clothes in recent years Barbara has noticed a decline in general quality on brands that you would think are immune to the fast fashion industry.  Brands that are actually pricier have quality issues.  I've heard that expressed many times in my research.

So, where to go next?  I'm going to research fabric a little more in depth next.  Stay tuned....